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速攀者和 solo 者--Dean Potter[图]

［ 作者：佚名   来源：不详   点击数：   更新时间：2007-09-09   文章录入：Admin   字体： ］

                                                                                                             　　easyrider译自ukclimbing

　　来自新罕布什尔州的Dean Potter是一个声名显赫的速攀者和solo者，他在约塞美地和巴塔哥尼亚有着许多首登经历。他是目前为止唯一一个以自由攀登方式完成约塞美地的Half Dome和El Cap（一天内完成）的攀登者。他还很漂亮的solo了很受欢迎的Astroman（位于Washington州的Column，5.11c）。在巴塔哥尼亚，Dean第一个free solo完成了Fitz Roy峰的Super canaleta路綫，随后是CerroTorre峰的“压缩机”路綫，接着又以free solo方式首登Fitz Roy峰的“加利福尼亚轮盘”路綫。他同时也因为攀登Utah州的“精美拱顶”引发的争论而著名，那次攀登激怒了不少人。他在抱石方面也很出色，拥有很多首攀纪录--无论是高大的巨石（译注：high ball指高度超过25英尺，比较危险的problem）还是小一些石头，在HuecoTanks和约塞美地。

　　最近他去约塞美地参加了一次solo的狂欢，完成了Separate Reality（5.11d）的第三次solo和Ray Jardine的Dog‘s Roof（5.12b）的首次solo。Separate Reality是一条暴露感强的屋檐裂缝线路，首次solo完攀Wolfgang Güllich在1986年完成。第二次solo由奥地利的攀岩者和摄影师Heinz Zak完成（他拍摄了Wolfgang Güllich首攀的著名照片）。

　　友情提示：攀岩有风险，solo请谨慎！

　　Photo below：

　　Wolfgang Güllich on the first solo ascent of Seperate Reality 5.11d,Yosemite© Heinz Zack, Aug 2006.

　　Dean Potter Solos Yosemites Separate Reality

　　New Hampshire born Dean Potter is well known as a speed climber and soloists with many firsts in Yosemite and Patagonia. Hes the only person to free climb Yosemites Half Dome and El Cap in a single day and made a fine solo of much sought after Astroman. In Patagonia, Dean made the first ever free solo of the Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy, followed with the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre and later free soloed the first ascent of Californian Roulette on Fitz Roy. Yes he is also known because of his controversial ascent of Delicate Arch in Utah that incensed many. Hes also a mean boulderer with many first ascents both, lowball and highball, in Hueco Tanks and Yosemite.

　　Recently he went on a soloing spree in Yosemite and made the third solo of Separate Reality (5.11d) and the first solo of another Ray Jardine route Dogs Roof (5.12b) . The first solo of the exposed roof-crack Separate Reality was by the rock god Wolfgang Güllich in 1986 and the second in 2005 by the Austrian climber and photographer Heinz Zak (who took famous pictures of Güllichs first ascent).                                                        
                

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